How To Do A Hem

Mastering the Hem: A Comprehensive Guide to Perfecting Your Sewing Skills

Learning how to do a hem is a fundamental skill in sewing, opening up a world of possibilities for altering clothes, creating custom garments, and even tackling home decor projects. Whether you're a seasoned sewer looking to refine your technique or a complete beginner taking your first steps, this comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge and confidence to achieve professional-looking hems every time. We'll cover various hemming methods, from simple hand-stitching to using a sewing machine, addressing common challenges and offering tips for success.

Understanding Different Hem Types and Their Applications

Before diving into the how-to, let's explore the different types of hems you can create. Choosing the right method depends on the fabric, garment style, and the desired finish.

• Machine Hem: This is the quickest and most common method, ideal for most woven fabrics and straight hems. It's efficient for mass production or when you need a durable, invisible finish.

• Hand-Stitched Hem: Offers a delicate and invisible finish, perfect for fine fabrics like silk or delicate lace. It's slower than machine hemming but allows for greater precision and control. Various hand stitches can be employed depending on the fabric and desired aesthetic.

• Rolled Hem: A narrow, elegant hem often used for lightweight fabrics like sheer curtains or delicate blouses. It's ideal when a minimal hem is desired without bulk.

• Double-fold Hem: A strong and durable hem, appropriate for heavier fabrics or areas requiring extra reinforcement. It involves folding the fabric twice before stitching, creating a neat and professional finish.

• Blind Hem: Produces an almost invisible hem, particularly useful for skirts and trousers. The stitches are hidden within the fabric fold, resulting in a clean and seamless look.

• Hong Kong Hem: A decorative and durable hem primarily used on garment edges. It involves encasing the raw edge with bias binding before hemming. This provides a clean finish and adds a touch of elegance.

Essential Tools and Materials

Before you begin, gather the necessary tools and materials to ensure a smooth and efficient hemming process.

• Measuring Tape: Accurate measurements are crucial for a perfectly even hem.
• Scissors or Rotary Cutter: Sharp cutting tools are essential for clean cuts.
• Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing is crucial for creating crisp, neat folds.
• Pins: Securely hold the fabric in place while sewing.
• Seam Ripper: For correcting mistakes.
• Needle and Thread (for hand-stitching): Choose a needle size appropriate for your fabric. Match your thread to the fabric color for an invisible finish.
• Sewing Machine (for machine hemming): Ensure your machine is properly threaded and the needle is appropriate for your fabric.
• Hem Gauge or Ruler: Helpful for measuring and creating consistent hem widths.
• Tailor's Chalk or Marking Pen: To mark the hemline.

Step-by-Step Guide: Creating a Simple Machine Hem

This guide focuses on creating a basic machine hem, a versatile technique suitable for many projects.

1. Preparation:

• Clean and Press: Start with clean, pressed fabric. Wrinkles can affect the accuracy of your hem.
• Determine Hem Width: Decide on the desired hem width (usually 1/2 inch to 1 inch). Consider the fabric weight and garment style.
• Mark the Hemline: Using tailor's chalk or a marking pen, mark the desired hemline along the garment edge.

2. Hemming the Fabric:

• Fold and Press: Fold the fabric up to the marked hemline, press with an iron to create a sharp crease. For a double-fold hem, fold again and press.
• Pinning: Secure the folded hem with pins, ensuring the pins are perpendicular to the fabric edge and spaced evenly. This prevents puckering and keeps the hem straight.
• Stitching: Stitch along the folded edge using a straight stitch on your sewing machine. Adjust the stitch length as needed for your fabric. A slightly longer stitch is usually recommended for hemming.
• Remove Pins: Carefully remove the pins as you sew to avoid damaging the needle.

3. Finishing Touches:

• Pressing: After stitching, press the finished hem to create a crisp, professional finish. This helps to set the stitching and ensures a smooth, even hemline.
• Trim Excess Fabric (Optional): For a neater finish, trim any excess fabric from the inside of the hem, leaving a small allowance to prevent the raw edge from fraying. Be careful not to cut into your stitching.

Step-by-Step Guide: Creating a Hand-Stitched Hem

Hand-stitching a hem provides a more delicate and often invisible finish.

1. Preparation:

• Same as Machine Hemming: Follow the preparation steps outlined in the machine hemming section.

2. Hand-Stitching the Hem:

• Choose Your Stitch: A slip stitch or a blind stitch is best for an invisible hem. A running stitch can be used if invisibility is less important.
• Start Stitching: Insert your needle at the hem edge, taking small, even stitches. The stitches should be barely visible from the right side of the fabric.
• Consistent Stitches: Keep your stitches small and even throughout. Uneven stitches can create a bumpy hemline.
• Finishing: Secure the thread with a knot at the end of the stitching. Trim excess thread.

3. Finishing Touches:

• Pressing: Carefully press the finished hand-stitched hem.

Tackling Different Fabrics and Hem Challenges

Different fabrics require slightly different approaches to hemming.

• Lightweight Fabrics (Silk, Chiffon): Hand-stitching or a rolled hem is often preferred to prevent bulkiness. Use a fine needle and thread.
• Medium-weight Fabrics (Cotton, Linen): Machine hemming or hand-stitching works well.
• Heavyweight Fabrics (Denim, Tweed): A double-fold hem or a machine hem with a heavier-duty needle is recommended. Consider using a heavier thread as well.
• Stretch Fabrics (Lycra, Jersey): Use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine or a special needle designed for knit fabrics. A zigzag stitch can also be used to prevent the hem from stretching out.
• Fraying Fabrics: Use a pinking shears to cut the fabric edge or use a serger to prevent fraying. A fusible interfacing can also help prevent fraying.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How do I prevent my hem from stretching out?

A: Use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine for knit fabrics. For woven fabrics, ensure you’ve pressed the hem properly and use a stitch length suitable for your fabric. Reinforce the hem with stay stitching for extra stability.

Q: What is the best stitch length for hemming?

A: A stitch length slightly longer than your usual sewing stitch is recommended, typically 2.5-3 mm. This allows for more flexibility and prevents the hem from becoming too tight.

Q: How do I create an invisible hem?

A: For an invisible hem, use a slip stitch or a blind stitch when hand-stitching. A machine blind hem stitch can also be used on some machines.

Conclusion: Mastering the Art of the Hem

Mastering the hem is a transformative step in your sewing journey. With practice and attention to detail, you can create beautiful, professional-looking hems that enhance your garments and projects. Remember to choose the appropriate hemming technique based on the fabric and garment style, and don't be afraid to experiment. The more you practice, the more confident and skillful you’ll become. So, gather your supplies, choose your project, and embark on your hemming adventure! The perfectly finished hem awaits!