How To Make A Hem

Mastering the Hem: A Comprehensive Guide to Perfectly Finished Edges

Sewing a perfect hem is a fundamental skill in sewing, transforming a garment from unfinished to professionally finished. Whether you're working on a simple dress, tailored trousers, or a delicate curtain, a well-executed hem ensures a polished and professional look. This comprehensive guide will take you through every step, from choosing the right hem type to mastering various techniques, equipping you with the skills to create beautifully finished hems every time. We'll cover everything from basic hand-sewing techniques to using a sewing machine, addressing common challenges and offering tips for different fabrics.

Introduction: Why Hemming Matters

A hem is the finished edge of a garment or fabric. More than just a functional detail, a well-executed hem elevates the overall appearance, significantly impacting the garment's quality and longevity. A poorly finished hem can easily unravel, look sloppy, and detract from even the most beautiful fabric. Mastering different hemming techniques allows you to adapt to various fabrics and styles, giving you complete control over your sewing projects. This guide will focus on several popular methods, providing you with the knowledge and confidence to tackle any hemming challenge.

Choosing the Right Hem Style: A Matter of Fabric and Function

The type of hem you choose depends heavily on the fabric and the style of the garment. Some popular options include:

• Simple Turned Hem: This is the easiest and most common type of hem, suitable for lightweight to medium-weight fabrics. It involves turning the fabric under twice before stitching.
• Double-Turned Hem: Ideal for lightweight fabrics where a neat, invisible finish is desired. This involves several small folds before stitching, creating a very narrow, almost invisible hem.
• Rolled Hem: Best for sheer fabrics like chiffon or silk. This technique rolls the raw edge of the fabric before stitching.
• Blind Hem: Creates an almost invisible hem, perfect for skirts and trousers where you want the stitching to be hidden. A special stitch is used to catch only a few threads of the fabric.
• Facing Hem: Used for heavier fabrics or where a more structured hem is needed. A facing – a separate piece of fabric – is used to enclose the raw edge.

Step-by-Step Guide: Creating a Simple Turned Hem (Sewing Machine Method)

This method is ideal for beginners and is suitable for a wide range of fabrics.

Materials:

• Fabric
• Sewing machine
• Pins
• Iron and ironing board
• Seam ripper (for mistakes)
• Tailor's chalk or fabric marker
• Measuring tape or ruler

Instructions:

1. Prepare the fabric: Press the fabric to remove any wrinkles. Ensure the raw edge is even.

2. Measure and mark: Decide on your desired hem width. Typically, a 1/2 inch to 1-inch hem is suitable. Use tailor's chalk or a fabric marker to mark this width along the raw edge of the fabric.

3. First fold: Fold the fabric over along the marked line, pressing firmly to create a clean crease.

4. Second fold: Fold the fabric over again, using the first crease as a guide. Press the fold firmly to create a neat, even hem.

5. Pinning: Carefully pin the hem in place, ensuring the pins are perpendicular to the edge and spaced evenly. Overlapping pins can make stitching difficult.

6. Stitching: Stitch along the folded edge, using a straight stitch and a stitch length of approximately 2.5 mm. Remove the pins as you sew to avoid damaging the needle.

7. Pressing: After stitching, press the hem again to create a crisp, professional finish.

Step-by-Step Guide: Creating a Double-Turned Hem (Hand-sewing Method)

This method creates a very neat, almost invisible hem, particularly suitable for lightweight fabrics.

Materials:

• Fabric
• Needle and thread matching your fabric
• Pins
• Iron and ironing board
• Seam ripper
• Tailor's chalk or fabric marker

Instructions:

1. Prepare the fabric: Press the fabric to remove wrinkles.

2. Measure and mark: Measure and mark a narrow hem width (around 1/4 inch) using tailor's chalk.

3. First fold: Fold the fabric over along the marked line, pressing firmly.

4. Second fold: Fold the fabric over again, creating a slightly wider hem (around 1/8 inch). Press the fold.

5. Pinning: Carefully pin the hem in place, ensuring the pins are spaced evenly.

6. Hand-stitching: Use a slip stitch or a blind stitch to hand-sew the hem. This involves using small, almost invisible stitches to attach the hem to the garment.

7. Pressing: After stitching, press the hem lightly to create a neat finish.

Step-by-Step Guide: Creating a Blind Hem (Sewing Machine Method)

A blind hem is ideal for skirts and trousers, creating an almost invisible seam. This method usually requires a specialized blind hem stitch on your sewing machine.

Materials:

• Fabric
• Sewing machine with a blind hem stitch
• Pins
• Iron and ironing board
• Seam ripper
• Tailor's chalk or fabric marker

Instructions:

1. Prepare the fabric: Press the fabric to remove wrinkles.

2. Measure and mark: Measure and mark your desired hem width (typically 1/2 inch to 1 inch).

3. Fold and press: Fold the fabric over along the marked line and press to create a crease.

4. Fold and press again: Fold the fabric over again to create the hem. Press firmly.

5. Pinning: Pin the hem carefully, ensuring the pins are close together.

6. Stitch: Using your sewing machine's blind hem stitch, carefully stitch along the edge of the hem. The blind hem stitch will catch only a few threads of the fabric, creating an invisible seam.

7. Pressing: After stitching, press the hem to create a clean finish.

Advanced Techniques and Troubleshooting

• Working with different fabrics: Heavier fabrics like denim may require a wider hem and a more robust stitch. Lightweight fabrics, like silk or chiffon, may require a rolled or double-turned hem to prevent bulkiness.

• Dealing with curves: When hemming curved edges, take your time and pin the hem frequently to ensure a smooth, even finish. You may need to ease the fabric gently as you stitch to avoid pulling or stretching.

• Preventing puckering: Puckering often occurs due to uneven fabric tension. Press the fabric thoroughly before and after each step. Make sure your stitches are consistent, and use a smaller stitch length if needed.

• Unraveling hems: If your hem is unraveling, use a seam ripper to remove the existing stitches and re-hem the garment, paying close attention to the steps outlined above.

• Choosing the right needle and thread: Using the correct needle and thread for your fabric is crucial. A fine needle is better for delicate fabrics, while a heavier needle is better for sturdier fabrics.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

• Q: What is the best way to prevent my hem from stretching?

  • A: Ensure your fabric is pre-washed and dried before sewing. Use a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch when working with stretchy fabrics. Pressing the hem firmly after each step also helps to prevent stretching.

• Q: How do I hem a very sheer fabric?

  • A: A rolled hem or a double-turned hem are ideal for sheer fabrics. Using a fine needle and thread, and a slip stitch for hand sewing, minimizes visibility and prevents bulk.

• Q: What is the best stitch length for hemming?

  • A: A stitch length of 2.0-2.5 mm is a good starting point for most fabrics. Adjust as needed based on the fabric's weight and type.

• Q: Can I use a serger to hem?

  • A: While a serger can finish the raw edge, it doesn't create a finished hem. You'll still need to fold and stitch the hem using a sewing machine or by hand.

• Q: How can I make a hem invisible?

  • A: A blind hem stitch is the best way to create an invisible hem. This stitch only catches a few threads of the fabric, making the seam virtually undetectable.

Conclusion: Mastering the Hem – A Journey of Precision and Patience

Hemming might seem like a small detail, but it's a testament to your sewing skills and attention to detail. Mastering different hemming techniques empowers you to create beautifully finished garments that look professional and last. With practice and patience, you'll develop the skills to confidently tackle any hemming project, enhancing the overall quality and aesthetic appeal of your creations. Remember, the key lies in careful preparation, precision, and a keen eye for detail. Each perfectly finished hem is a step towards becoming a more confident and accomplished sewist.